30 June Amboise to Chenonceaux

An excellent meal at L'Epicurie, sat outside with the massive walls of Chateau d'Amboise towering up just across the street.
This morning we visited the Chateau, another very different but amazing place. Stunning views along the river, an great entrance and impressive gardens.
WWW.Chateau-Amboise.com
Then we went to the Chataeu du Clos Luce & Parc Leonardo da Vinci. Again very impressive, but very different from the other ones we have seen. This had much more of a 'home' feel to it. The rooms were very light and airy. The basement and Parc had a number of da Vinci's inventions/ideas on show.
WWW.vinci-closluce.com
After lunch we cycled on to Chenonceaux, which we intend to visit tomorrow. Found the Camping Municipal, €8.70 for the night. All set up and tried the local bar for customary beers, and now sat in tent, and it is raining.
Mileage:- 10   Total:-  645.5

Photos

Try this link:-
https://plus.google.com/photos/112154000003605398598/albums/6028175890040224161?authkey=CJC95vPx6ojIlQE

29 June Muides-sur-Loire to Amboise

I think we all enjoyed the 'day off', and we now all have clean clothes.
We had 'chicken'n'chips last night, and attempted to eat what we would not be able to carry. Heavy rain again through the night, but it did stop as we set off.
But we soon stopped to put on waterproofs as the rain got heavier. We passed Blois on the other side of the river, great views and the rain stopped.
We had lunch at Cande-sur-Beuvron, many more cyclists about, then we remembered it is Sunday. Most of the route has been good cycle path or small roads, but early on we had a rougher section, that with the rain made it treacherous, very slippery, which with laden bikes is really awkward. Jenny came off once, but no problems , and we had some sticky moments. We stopped in a Spa hotel at Mosnes for a drink before heading up the slopes of the vineyards on a loop that would bring us to Amboise. It was great to get a bit of height and the views were worth the climb. The plan was to get a hotel in the town in order to visit some of the main attractions. We just got into the hotel before the heavens opened, though the sun is now shinning again.
Mileage:- 37  Total:-  635.5

Blois

Plant Pots, Large!

Local Gardener

Local boats

28 June Muides-sur-Loire Rest Day

10.30 After a very pleasant evening eating in for a change, we all had a good nights sleep. Fresh Bread and croissants, orange juice and coffee and all is well with the world. The predicted
8.o'clock rain started at 7.40.
10.00  Enthusiasm for a day trip is waning fast. But, we went. Chambord was amazing. Such a vast building. Too much to try and describe, check it out on Google.
We managed to get there and back without rain, though we now have a thunderstorm.
Mileage:- 10   Total:- 598.5

And we stayed here, big compared to a tent.

27 June Beaugency to Muides-sur-Loire

The Hotel de l'Abbaye was something else. Enormous rooms, a massive staircase, which was lit by candles when we returned from a meal in town. The breakfast was almost all made or grown by monks and nuns in local monasteries. It was a lovely evening.
Today we were travelling a little further in order to have a day off, wash everything and visit a place or 2.
Soon after setting off we passed three German ladies. We have been passing them or being passed by them over the last 3 days. The first time we saw them they were all wearing floaty batik tops. Ann & I have called them 'the chiffon ladies', John & Jenny call them 'the 3 graces'. We all wave and call out when we pass.
The route is now mainly wide and very smooth Tarmac, well signed and since Orleans has become quite busy by contrast to the earlier part of the trip. The forecast is for heavy prolonged rain so we have hired a chalet on a campsite for 2 days for our break. The thunder has started, followed quickly by very heavy rain, and John P has been sent for essentials, wine and beer. A wet and bedraggled John P arrived back with enough supples to last out the rain.
Mileage:- 12  Total:- 588.5

 A few pictures of the Hotel de l'Abbaye. A very enjoyable stay. Our room was Frere Valentino's. I am not sure life was so hard for these monks.

26 June St. Benoit-sur-Loire to Beaugency

A good meal on the terrace of the Hotel Madelaine. A very quiet night and we awoke to more sunshine. Breakfasted in town and then a short ride to Germigny and it's church, famous for its shape, a Greek cross and the mosaic. Well worth the visit. As we entered the church a small group of vicars(?) were gathered at the front and sang a Gregorian chant. Pure chance we were there but wonderful to hear.
Then back on the route and apart from one or two short rougher parts and a section of cobbles that was just a bit too long, we were on levees and smooth cycle paths. The route into Orleans was very well signed and easy to follow. Another city that seems to have had an upgrade and provides good safe paths for pedestrians and cyclists.
We were soon through the city and back into rural countryside, bowling along at 13/14 mph.
Our next stop was Meung-sur-Loire, a lovely old town, with narrow streets and what look like York "snickleways". Looked for a hotel here but they were full. So on to Beaugency, where we got a room in the Hotel de l'Abbaye. Very Grand.
Mileage :- 50  Total :- 576.5

Mosaic ceiling in Germingny des Pres

Bridge over Loire at Orleans, looks similar to one in Fulford.

Bedroom in our tent.

25 June Gien to St. Benoit-sur-Loire

A later start after some essential shopping, Gaz and lunch. Another hot day and more pleasant cycling along paths, small roads and river side. We planned a shorter day to allow time to have a visit to the first main chateau we pass at Sully-sur-Loire.  For a while all we could see was the very top of 2 towers, then as we came along the riverside the woods opened out to the chateau. A large moat surrounding a very impressive building. We spent an enjoyable couple of hours exploring the rooms. I found the most impressive part was the massive cathedral style wooden roof, looking very much like an enormous upturned boat. The rooms had enough artefacts in them to give an idea of how they might have been used. Which is better than many of the buildings we have seen in France which often have just empty rooms.
Following the advice of the guide book we continued on to Benoit-sur-Loire for a camp site. A very quiet wooded site just out of town.
Mileage:- 26  Total:- 526.5

24 June St Satur to Gien, photos and comments

We had a very good meal in the restaurant opposite the hotel, and a quiet night. 

A wet start to the day, the hotel owner took our photo for his Facebook page, to be added to the unicyclist who stayed recently. The Unicycle looks like the one that was in the Eden Epic last year.

Some of the route was a bit rough but manageable, shopping then on to Briare and the magnificent Pont Canal. 

Weather improved, stopped for drinks before finding the campsite, river view and voucher for free Kir. 

I have finally, I hope, sorted out adding photos. I have done a few and hopefully in the next few days, Wifi allowing I will add more.
I also had comments to say adding comments was difficult, so I have tried to make that easier, but will only know if it works if someone posts a comment.

Mileage:- 40 miles  Total:- 500.5

23 June Nevers to Sancere

We had a meal in town, and returned to the campsite to discover the competition to see how close you can camp to someone else without sleeping in their tents had taken place in our absence. Some French cyclists had ignored the large open space available and camped between the Parkins and their neighbour, an English motorcyclist.
It started raining just as we packed our last things, our first rain of this trip. It then continued to rain all day. We stopped at La Charite-sur-Loire for lunch, which we had in a cave. The route was clearly signed and some of the parts that are on the map as "under construction" are complete, with new signs and very smooth Tarmac.
The hill up to Sancere itself looked daunting as we approached and in the rain it became even less appealing. As we crossed a road, a sign with Hotel de la Loire on it beckoned.
John & Jenny opted for the camping option.

Mileage:- 44  Total :-  460.5

This section had a great path, clean and tidy tarmac.

Hotel owners Facebook photo, last one was a unicyclist.

22 June Bourbon-Lancy to Nevers

Free music night in town. We wandered in and listened to a local orchestra. Only 2 restaurants that we saw, one fully booked, the other said table for 8 o'clock. The meal eventually arrived in an airline/school type tray, all four courses at the same time. A first in France for us.
A great start leaving Bourbon - Lancy, a very pleasant little town, all down hill. D15, a quiet but pleasant road all the way to Decize, then canal path, this section is not all complete and we were back on the road for a while. Stopped for lunch at Avril sur Loire, a picnic beside a beautiful romanasque church. Temperature up to 28 C. Roads are fast but little shade so we were very hot by the time we got to Nevers. Found a campsite on route, next to the river and some shade. Campsite is filling fast, lots of campers and a few canoeists, both finishing and starting trips on the river.
Mileage :- 46    Total:- 416.5

Many of the Lock Keepers houses

were decorated and had lots of flowers.

Bikes

We are starting to see a wide range of bikes as the number of cyclists increases. We see a good number of tourers each day, obviously lots of locals, many older portly men in lycra, then the more unusual bikes.
We saw 3 recumbent trikes parked up for lunch, two of them fully faired. We have seen a number of tandems, then we saw the American family, with 3 bikes, a double tagalong and a trailer. At one campsite we saw a fully enclosed recumbent trike with a matching trailer. The owner was doing a long circuit from Brittany to Belgium, down to Switzerland back across France then north to his home. He was averaging 100 miles a day. Slightly less impressive when we discovered his bike was electric assisted.

2 fully faired recumbent trikes

This is the recumbent trike and trailer, electric powered

21 June Palingas to Bourbon-Lancy

Luckily the local shop was open and we managed to concoct a passable salad, which considering the weather was fine.
Away by 9.40 and again good paths, initially small roads, but very quiet, then onto good canal side paths. Quickly got to Digoin, where we cross the Loire for the first time. A very impressive aqueduct, the river below being very wide, and also a number of canals converge at this point. Here we met an American couple from Utah with their 4 children, one on a bike, 2 children on a double tagalong with sun/rain covers and the last one asleep in a trailer. They obviously were enjoying their trip and were keen to exchange information as they were headed in the opposite direction to us. They were a fair sized convoy. There was much more traffic on the route today. Still very pleasant and quiet for most of the time.
Mileage:- 40   Total:- 370.5

Here we are, the Loire. Quite a busy point and a number of cycle tourers  around this area.

20 June Chagny to Palingas

We watched the Match at the campsite, though not many others watching.
Away before 10.00 and again the scenery changes, only saw a few vineyards though. Now gently rolling hills and mainly on small roads, as these are alternative routes as the main route is not complete the signage is not so clear. Stopped near a lock for lunch and got chatting to a couple, British, who owned a large barge and spent half the year on it.
Very hot as we arrived at the campsite, beers were hastily drunk and tents put up very slowly. Then we discover - no restaurant.

Mileage :- 42   Total :- 330.5

19 June Seurre to Chagny

We had rain last night, but everything was dry by the time we were up this morning. We had breakfast in town, and away by 10.00.
The route to day started in a very flat area and followed a mix of river and canal. We saw the last of the river Doubs as it joined the Saone at Verdun sur Le Doubs. This section of the route is still being developed and had a few diversions. We passed lots Sunflowers, only one flower in vast field of plants, wheat, barley, rapeseed and sweet corn. Very quite and peaceful villages. After Chalon we joined the Canal du Centre which took us along very smooth Tarmac right to Chagny, where we set up camp. We are now in serious wine country so will have to watch the wine drinkers amongst us.
Mileage :- 41    Total :- 289.5

Obligatory beers

Just checking.

18 June Dole to Seurre

Dole was a fascinating place. "Petite Venice" in the advertising blurb. Sort of a mini mix of Venice and York with hills and water. Very pleasant to wander round.
Off by 10.00 and initially back on canal paths, heat was building quickly as we rode along good smooth tarmac paths. The route then left the canal and followed some smaller roads, and then back to the canal, then again leaving the canal. We were now in Bourgogne area and heading towards the river Soane. The heat was really building up and there was less shade along the route. We found some large shady trees to sit under and have our lunch. Then after a few minor detours, parts of the route in this area are not complete yet, we found our way into Seurre. Straight to the campsite and it was closed, and did not look as if it would open again. Tourist information directed us to the other site which was operational, though the office was closed, forcing us to have a beer as we waited. The office finally
opened and we put the tents up. Another lovely day, the route is quite varied with plenty to see. I guess as we now are getting into these major wine areas there will be more chateaux to see.
Mileage:- 36   Total:- 248.5
Luckily many of the sites had picnic tables, great at breakfast

17 June Besancon to Dole

Mileage:- 38  Total  212.5

An excellent meal at 1802 restaurant.
The workmen arrived to start work early. We were up, breakfasted, lunch bought and packed by 10.00.
The first part of today's route was a 500 meter tunnel under the Citadel. This led on to the canal side. Excellent Tarmac paths virtually all day. The scenery was again lovely and varied. The narrower high cliff sides opened out as we rode into the Jura region. Weather was sunny and warm.
We arrived at Dole about 15.00 a pleasant 3 star campsite.
Mileage:- 39

16 June Baum-les-Dames to Besancon

The route took us to many strange places

We dined just along the road at La Capitainerie. A very enjoyable meal. The weather remains very good, a quiet night, and we woke to blue skies. Eventually set off around 10.00 heading for Besancon. We followed the river Le Doubs, or the canal, and sometimes both on a narrow strip of land between the two. The rolling gentle hills of yesterday soon gave way to higher hills and towering cliffs. The route slowly wound along with amazing views. As we neared Besancon, the cliffs were quite high, on the top was the Citadel, which appears to have been built to protect the old town which was built on the land inside the loop of the river. We arrived along the river and straight onto the town promenade around the walls on the inside of the loop, being a protective wall there were no breaches. We eventually found a way in and were pleasantly surprised by the old town. The old part inside the loop is simply a walled town. We found a hotel, and when we say under reconstruction we really mean it. The workmen stood aside to let us up to the top and only completed floor. Our rooms are fine, the lift was working by the end of the afternoon, but the rest still has a lot of work to be done.

"Little Venice"

Mileage:- 25   Total:- 174.5

High Speed Electric assisted recumbent trike with trailer

15 June Montbeliard to Baum-les-Dames

Now where are we?

After a good breakfast at the Hotel Bristol, we set off. Our first problem was having to cross the racetrack that passes as a mini ring road. After successfully managing that we were back on our route and away. Today's route followed the canal and was clearly signed and good quality Tarmac almost all the way. The few small sections that were on the road, nearly all small lanes,  were in need of repair. In some places the canal used the river, having locks at one side where there were weirs. At other times we were between the river and the canal on a very narrow piece of land. The weather again was sunny and warm. The canal/ river meandered through low hills and a mix of farmland and woodland, very scenic and peaceful. At Clerval we found a Carboot sale with the smell of BBQ wafting around. Lunch was merguez hot dogs by the river. The car boot sale looked interesting, everything one could need, tables, ornaments, guns, roof bars and lots more. Sadly the roof bars would not fit the tandem so we had to forgo the table. Straight after lunch we had our first climb, which took us high above the canal for superb views, followed by long sweeping descents back to the canal path. We were very quickly into Baum-Les-Dames where the campsite was clearly signed just off the route. The 3 star site is very clean with good sized emplacements. Ours even has table and chairs. Quickly settled in, tents up, washing done, coffee on, lovely scenery.
Mileage:- 37.5.   Total 149.5

A good variety of steeples and church roofs.

14 June Mulhouse to Montbeliard

We awoke to another blue sky. The night had not been cold and there was no dew or dampness on the tents at all. We set off about 10.00, turned left out of the campsite and were back on the route. Once away from the town we were on a very good cycle path alongside the Rhine Rhone Canal. A pleasant wind mainly behind us also kept us cool. We started at lock 31 and gently rose up to lock number 1, then they started down. We estimated to have risen around 900 feet. There were quite a few cyclists, but in general it was quiet. A very picturesque route, lots of bird life, distant views of hills and lock cottages.
We arrived at Montbeliard about 3.00. There were police sirens, car horns blaring and lots of noise. A wedding, which seems to mean lots of people drive around town making as much noise as possible while hanging out of the car, or sitting on the boot of soft tops. We quickly found the Hotel Bristol, locked the bikes up and had an enjoyable swim.
Mileage:- 37 miles. Total to date 112 miles

Canal cycle path. We quickly got on to Tarmac  that went on for miles.

 The canal locks are numbered,  counting down to the highest  point then counting up to the next major feature. We had numbers from the "Med"which then changed to "Ocean"
(Atlantic ) as we started down.

13 June Basle to Mulhouse

Last night all was going well until 2 minutes before the train was due we discovered that, the train was not going to Basle but stopping just over the German border where buses would take us to Cologne and there we would be reunited with the train we should have got 4 hours earlier. The problems had been caused by the storms in Germany earlier in the week. As it happened, it all worked well, minibuses took the bicycles, at least 20, a number of coaches took us, and although inconvenient, and losing some sleep we arrived in Basle on time 6.47!
Once we were packed up and ready we easily found our way down to the river and our first EuroVelo signpost. The first half of today's short section we did last year on The Rhine Route, only then it was pouring down. Today was very warm and pleasant. We were pleased we had opted for a shorter day as we were all feeling tired after the disturbed night. Campsite in Mulhouse "Camping d'ill B" a 3 Star site, grassy pitches, clean toilet blocks snack bar open evenings.
Mileage :- 27 (+7 shopping trip). Here we are checking signs so we do not end up in Black Sea.